At one of Chiang Mai’s first modern fine dining restaurants, Phanuphon “Black” Bulsuwan turns seasonal – and sometimes foraged – local ingredients into regularly rotating 10-course tasting menus that weave together Thai, Japanese and Chinese influences. Think Japanese somen with local chicken thigh, fish maw and preserved quail egg. Sustainability is a fundamental pillar here, too. Kitchen scraps, for example, get fermented or repurposed into home-brewed beer and sake that can be paired with your lunch or dinner.

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